New England Cornmeal Custard Cake
A humble dessert that overdelivers, from a new regional cookbook.
Like Noah Kahan, L.L. Bean Boots, and the Maine coastline north of Camden, this Cornmeal Custard Cake is an unassuming New England masterpiece.
You whip it up in one bowl. You bake it in a cast iron skillet. You shut down any little voice in your head that expresses alarm at the amount of heavy cream that goes into and on top of this impossibly simple cake, in which a no-nonsense cornmeal batter is transformed into a tender, custardy confection. Eat it barely cooled out of the oven, drizzled with cream and maple (I don’t have to specify real to this group, right?) syrup.
It’s also excellent eaten cold from the fridge with hot coffee the next morning. If you’re a pie-for-breakfast kind of New Englander, you get it.
Where did this hot little number come from?
I was lucky to receive an advance copy of New England Brunch: Seasonal Midday Meals for Leisurely Weekends (Globe Pequot). And if you’re the kind of cook whose been grumbling about all the big-budget social-media influencer books flooding the market, consider this well-researched, author-photographed, indie press regional foodways book an antidote.
Author Tammy Donroe Inman is a New England native, trained chef, Boston-based cooking instructor, and author who earned her cooking chops at Cook’s Illustrated and America’s Test Kitchen. She’s written for the Boston Globe, Edible Boston, and The Kitchn, and quite frankly, I’m shocked we’ve never crossed paths given that resume. I think it’s time to track her down for a coffee!
Tammy is clearly a brunch enthusiast, and she offers something for every craving, and occasion in this book. From Pumpkin Whole Wheat Pancakes and baked goods like this New England Cornmeal Custard Cake, to regional favorites like Lobster Salad Sliders, and (known hangover cure) Portuguese Kale Stew. She also includes a full chapter devoted to totally doable Dim Sum at home, and a handful of truly tempting brunch drinks like a Peach-Berry Sangria I can’t wait to make a pitcher of this summer.
When I asked Tammy about why she created this book, and what she hopes readers and cooks will get out of it, she shared the following:
I wrote this book because I feel like brunch can be so much more creative than what we see on a typical menu. I wanted more fresh fruit, more vegetables, more flavor. And fun drinks certainly don’t hurt!
I’m very inspired by the seasons and the local farmers who grow the ingredients that reflect our regional identity: maple syrup, blueberries, cranberries, pumpkins, corn. You can do so much with local produce.
These are not stodgy old Yankee recipes but rather modern twists that make sense in today’s kitchens while also acknowledging the rich history of our past.
I hope people will cook like crazy out of this cookbook, but also read all the interesting historical tidbits. I want the photographs to lure people into the kitchen to have a delicious experience. And I hope folks will continue to support our local farms and markets.
I for one, can’t wait to cook my way through this book, just as soon as I finish eating this precious cornmeal cake, hunched over the kitchen counter like Gollum.
P.S Tammy is throwing a book launch party and all you Smart Cooks readers are invited! It will take place at Hummingbird Books in Newton, MA on Sunday April 6 from 10 a.m. - noon.
And here’s a link to order New England Brunch
RECIPE
New England Cornmeal Custard Cake
Serves 8-12
From New England Brunch: Seasonal Midday Meals for Leisurely Weekends
INGREDIENTS
2 cups milk
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar (or white vinegar)
1 cup all-purpose flour
¾ cup yellow cornmeal
½ cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¾ teaspoon fine sea salt
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup heavy cream, plus more for serving
Maple syrup, for serving
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat oven to 350F. Place a 10-inch cast iron skillet (or casserole dish) in the oven for 5 minutes while it preheats.
2. Combine the milk and vinegar in a measuring cup and let sit for 5-10 minutes to thicken.
3. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add the eggs and the milk mixture. Whisk until it forms a smooth, loose batter.
4. With an oven mitt, remove the hot skillet from the oven. Add the butter and return the pan to the oven for a few minutes until the butter melts. Swirl the butter around the bottom and halfway up the sides of the pan until coated. Pour the excess into the batter and whisk. Pour the batter into the hot skillet, scraping the bottom and sides of the bowl.
5. Pour the heavy cream directly into the center of the batter without stirring. Carefully place the skillet back in the oven. Bake 40-45 minutes, until the cake is golden and top and starting to crack but still a little jiggly in the middle.
6. Remove the pan from the oven and let cool about 20 minutes, until sliceable but still warm. Serve with maple syrup and heavy cream.
7. Leftovers should be removed from the cast iron pan promptly to preserve the pan’s seasoning. The cake can be covered and stored in the refrigerator for 2-3 days. Gently warm in the oven or microwave.
TAMMY DONROE INMAN
Yes to well-researched, regionally specific cookbooks!!
Was the best